Hardware
Door hardware is the collective term for everything mechanical attached to a door: hinges, locksets, handles, and the various stops and closers that control how a door behaves. Hardware selection affects security, usability, and aesthetics — and it's one of the easier things to upgrade on an existing door without starting over.
Hinges
Hinges are the pivot point of any swinging door. Most residential doors use butt hinges — two rectangular leaves joined by a pin, mortised flush into both the door edge and the jamb. Standard interior doors typically use two hinges; doors over 80 inches or heavier solid-core and exterior doors should use three.
Sizing
Hinge size should match door weight and thickness:
| Door type | Hinge size |
|---|---|
| Hollow-core interior | 3½ inch |
| Solid-core interior | 3½ or 4 inch |
| Exterior | 4 inch |
| Heavy or oversized | 4½ inch |
Finish
Hinge finish should match or complement the lockset. Mixing hardware finishes — satin nickel hinges with oil-rubbed bronze knobs, for instance — is a common and avoidable inconsistency. Most manufacturers offer hinges in satin nickel, oil-rubbed bronze, polished brass, and matte black as standard options.
Ball-bearing vs. plain bearing
Exterior doors and high-traffic interior doors benefit from ball-bearing hinges, which reduce wear and operate more smoothly under load. Plain bearing hinges are adequate for standard interior applications.
Locksets
A lockset is the combined mechanism of handle and latch. Residential locksets fall into four functional categories:
Passage locksets have no locking function — they latch the door but anyone can open it from either side. Used for hallways, closets, and any door where privacy isn't needed.
Privacy locksets can be locked from the inside, typically with a push-button or turn mechanism, and unlocked from the outside with a small emergency tool (usually a coin or a straightened paperclip through a hole in the exterior knob). Used for bathrooms and bedrooms.
Keyed locksets require a key from the outside and a thumb-turn from the inside. Used for exterior doors, typically in combination with a deadbolt rather than as the sole locking mechanism.
Dummy locksets are non-functional — no moving latch, no lock. Used on the inactive panel of French doors or on closet doors that are held closed by a magnetic catch.
Handles: knobs vs. levers
The handle style is the most visible hardware decision and largely comes down to preference and accessibility.
Knobs require a gripping and turning motion, which can be difficult for people with limited hand strength or dexterity. Levers operate with a simple downward push and are easier to use with full hands or limited grip.
Levers are the better default choice for most interior doors. They're required by ADA standards in commercial construction, and that guidance applies equally well in residential contexts — particularly for bathrooms and any space used by older adults or children.
The one practical consideration with levers is snag potential: a lever pointing into a hallway can catch on sleeves or bags in tight spaces. In very narrow corridors, a knob or a lever oriented parallel to the door may be preferable.
Deadbolts
A keyed lockset alone is not adequate security for an exterior door. A deadbolt — a separate lock with a solid steel bolt that extends into the door jamb — should be installed on every exterior entry door.
Single-cylinder deadbolts key from the outside and use a thumb-turn on the inside. They're the standard choice for most exterior doors.
Double-cylinder deadbolts key from both sides, eliminating the thumb-turn. They're sometimes used on doors with glass panels near the lock to prevent someone from breaking the glass and reaching in to turn the thumb-turn. The significant tradeoff is that a double-cylinder deadbolt requires a key to exit in an emergency — a serious safety concern, and one that local fire codes may prohibit. Use them only after weighing that risk carefully.
Double-cylinder deadbolts can prevent escape in a fire or emergency. Check local code requirements before installing one, and never use one without leaving a key accessible from the inside.
Door stops
A door stop prevents a door from swinging too far and damaging the wall, handle, or hinge. There are three common types:
Wall-mounted stops are small rubber-tipped bumpers mounted to the baseboard or wall at the point of contact. Simple and reliable.
Floor-mounted stops serve the same function but mount to the floor. Useful when the wall behind the door is unavailable or obstructed.
Hinge-pin stops attach to the hinge pin and limit swing angle without any wall or floor contact. A good option for doors that open into tight spaces.
Door closers
Door closers use a spring-loaded or hydraulic mechanism to pull a door shut automatically after it's opened. They're standard on commercial doors and occasionally useful in residential applications — garage entry doors, screen doors, and any door that household members reliably leave open.
Residential closers are surface-mounted to the door face and jamb. They're adjustable for closing speed and latch assist. Installation is straightforward but the closer arm does add visual bulk to the door.
Next: Installation
With the right door and hardware selected, Installation covers how to get it into the opening correctly — from framing the rough opening to setting the final hinge screws.